How To Keep Pond Full Of Water
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OP  | I have a ane/two acre pond that suffers from drastically varying water levels. Runoff is the only water source. The shoreline is very steep in almost places and there really isn't a practical manner to fix that. If it is total or nearly then it is great, merely at times similar now, it is very low and not very pretty or usable. Fortunately it is deep for it'south size, about 18-20' if full, then I don't experience in danger of going completely dry. I'm thinking nearly drilling a well then I can keep the pond full most of the year. This may too allow me utilise the water for irrigation which would be a plus. Access to electrical nearby for a pump and to become a drilling rig in is non a problem. Would like to here from anyone who has done something similar. Things to consider in my planning, potential pitfalls, cost, lessons learned, etc. |
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| Moderator | Would like to here from anyone who has done something similar. Things to consider in my planning, potential pitfalls, cost, lessons learned, etc. I used the house well to assist continue my pond upward this yr. While I couldn't keep information technology full, I was able to keep information technology about 12"-eighteen" college than surrounding ponds in the area. Planning: Make certain you lot have plenty water flow out of the well to fill up the pond taking into consideration how much water leaks out. If I was to drill a well specifically for the swimming, I'd rather drill ane that volition pump out a huge book of h2o in a short amount of fourth dimension and rig it up to an automated float system and so information technology would turn itself on and off if I wasn't at the pond on a daily basis. My reasoning is that if I accept to pump cool water into the pond continually, I might go along the water temp down, maybe too far for optimum growth for warm water species if I was continually adding cool water (every bit I would do if I didn't accept a lot of flow). Adding a big shot of h2o might let it warm up before another shot was needed. I'd also look into adding the water to the lowest (i.eastward. deepest) part of the pond. That way you wouldn't be diluting the warmer top h2o and you would be adding oxygen to the cooler water on the bottom. I don't know how cold it gets by y'all, but here I would demand to plan on keeping the line going to the pond unfrozen the whole year, or bleed it for the winter. I know the water here is good to put in the swimming. Cecil has high iron, so he needs to remove some of the iron before information technology goes to the pond. Too, well water has zippo or very footling oxygen in it. It also could accept dissolved gasses in it that would be detremental to the fish. If you were to run the water over a bunch of rocks, splashing it around earlier it entered the pond it would add O2 and remove the dissolved gasses. Cecil did the aforementioned affair by running the water thru a stacked column of buckets filled with hollow plastic spheres. Pumps wearable faster when they are close off and turned on. For something similar you are describing, running it without a float tank is all-time. For water volume, my wells' output is 28 gpm. That isn't enough to keep upward with the leakage from my swimming AND fill up it more than 1/4" per day. If I were to sink a well for the swimming it'd have to exist 75 to 100 GPM. Costs vary as well much from region to region. Electric would be easy to figure, just go on the hp rating of the motor. I'd put a double or triple screen at the bottom of the well if possible - less to plug upwardly. The house well has a double screen (it's a 4" well) and the driller said it was capable of pumping 100 gpm with the accordingly sized motor. |
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| | My friend, I feel your pain in the toll that lack of precipitation has taken on our ponds. I purchased a 20 acre property in north-central Oklahoma about seven-8 years agone. There was a beautiful 3-4 acre stocked pond on the identify forth with peach, pear, apple and pecan trees. The admirer I purchased the property from had sunk a well specifically for the swimming and I have kept information technology running at about 25 gallons per hour almost constantly since I bought the identify. The price to run a one-half h.p. pump 24/7 is $300+ per month in my area. That size pump is not keeping upwardly with the h2o loss due to natural conditions that we have experienced this year in that size swimming. Perchance it could in yours. More research would probably be warranted. My inlet is underwater in a shallower office of the pond and I honestly don't know if this has had a negative impact on it or not. During the summer I became concerned most oxygen levels and equally a partial, simple, and cheap mensurate to aid oxygenation, I installed a venturi tee to my pvc pipe inlet to the swimming. This is the aforementioned device used in hot tubs to mix the air bubbles in with the water. No pump or electricity, the air is fatigued in by the stream of water passing past an air inlet tube. Kinda cool. Plus the cool water will tend to concur more dissolved oxygen, until it warms. |
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| | Torchroadster, |
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| | An acre is 43,560 square feet. Ane acre of water, one inch deep, is 27,000 gallons. And then, figure the # of gallons your well tin can produce. If we use Scott's(Esshup) 28gpm well every bit an example, he can pump 40,320 gallons if the well runs 24/7. Costs per kilowatt vary regionally simply trying to continue up with leaks, evaporation, trees sucking water, etc. tin can get pricey. Copse? According to Lusk in Perfect Pond...Desire ane? a Texas Tech study shows that a willow tree with a 30 ft canopy will transpire 400 gallons per mean solar day. So, summate the size of your pond, and look at your weekly water loss. Then figure out the gpm of your well ON AN ONGOING Footing to figure out just how much water per day you really take a available in a 24 hour period. Calculate the toll to produce the water. Calculate the toll of the butt kicking you lot'll get if the well runs dry while your dearly beloved is taking a shower. Information technology may simply be cheaper to drain and gear up the dam or try to change the runoff expanse. It's not about the fish. It's almost the swimming. Take care of the swimming and the fish will be fine. Atomic number 82 subscriber since before it was in color. Without a sense of urgency, Nothing ever gets done. Boy, if I say "sic em", you'd better look for something to bite. Sam Shelley Rancher and Farmer Muleshoe Texas 1892-1985 RIP |
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| OP | Thank you for all of the great responses. I know trees are a large correspondent to my water loss, but for a number of reasons I don't want to take many of them out. I did cut downwardly a big willow tree this leap near the dam, but the swimming is still lined on 3 sides with cedar, oak, and pecan. I will certainly look at the vegetation closer and thin what I can, but I don't expect to practically make a big touch on in this area. I have a public water supply for the house and in fact accept a human action brake that requires me to apply it so this well would only be for the pond and irrigation. I get the point about the cost of running a pump and will surely exercise those calculations earlier committing. For my small 1/2 acre pond I just calculated I tin add 1" of water in 8 hours at 28 GPM. That doesn't seem too bad and is certainly way more than the rate I'm losing water. I can understand it would be a very different situation on a larger pond. If anyone wants to cheque my math: 0.v acre = 21,780 sq. ft. * one/12 ft = 1815 cu. ft or 13,576 gallons per inch of water level. (7.48 gallons/cu. ft.) 13,576 gallons / 28 GPM = 484 minutes or 8 hours to raise the level one inch. Final edited by torchroadster; 12/18/10 10:36 AM. |
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| Moderator | Sounds nigh right providing that the soil that the extra water covers leaks at the same rate as the soil that is covered by water at present. I found that the extra water depth =more than soil covered by water = more water leaking out. It didn't leak whatsoever faster per sq. ft. of pond bottom, it was that since I covered more soil with water it came close to a point of equilibrium. What I was pumping in was leaking out at the aforementioned rate. My pond is filled by soil run-off in the Bound, merely it also is dug into the h2o table. The soil was sandy; non plenty clay to seal the swimming from seasonal h2o tabular array ups 'north downs. |
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| | Sounds near correct providing that the soil that the extra h2o covers leaks at the same rate as the soil that is covered past water now. I constitute that the extra water depth =more than soil covered by water = more than water leaking out. It didn't leak any faster per sq. ft. of pond bottom, it was that since I covered more soil with water information technology came shut to a point of equilibrium. What I was pumping in was leaking out at the same rate. My pond is filled by soil run-off in the Leap, but it also is dug into the water table. The soil was sandy; not plenty clay to seal the pond from seasonal water table ups 'n downs. I might be hijacking this thread, and if i practice, im sorry... Esshup I am building a three acre swimming that is a small revine that is being dammed up. My contractor wants to dig down to the water table in a few spots to "break open the springs" He dug a 10 foot test hole, and I had 3 pes of h2o in in 24 hours later.. I also alive in west texas where it hasnt really rained in 1 twelvemonth and we are seeing our 40th day higher up 100 today. Should I be concerned as many have posted about having an opening to the spring or water table? Or is this a positive like my clay man says... How has yours washed over the years? cheers dustin |
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| Moderator | Dustin, If I had my druthers, I'd druther have a 100% clay lined swimming that isn't attached to the water table. Now, that's tempered with the fact that the pond is roughly 300 feet from the well, and I tin can pump 25 gpm into the pond. On reflection, I'd still want that even if I didn't have a well shut by. Simply, I'd want more than 10' depth. Some other friend has 12' depth in his pond that likewise is a water table pond, and last winter he only had 4' of h2o in information technology..... Another friend has a pond that is clay lined. He does accept a slight amount of surface run-off inbound the pond about of the twelvemonth, and he only drops ix" to 12" all yr. I accept ii minor stock tanks near the house sunk into the footing to act as modest ornamental ponds. One has a fountain and is 300 gallons, the other has no fountain and is 100 gallons. The 300 gallon tank will drib almost 3/four" per twenty-four hour period due to evaporation. The 100 gallon tank will drop nigh three/viii" per day due to evaporation. If I terminate the well water going into my pond, in this atmospheric condition I will lose (due to evaporation and seepage) roughly 2" per day because the pond is college than the groundwater level. If the springs that the contractor wants to open up up will be virtually the superlative of the water cavalcade in the pond one time it's filled, than I say open 'em upward and brand sure the rest of the pond basin is properly lined and compacted clay. If they will be near the lesser of the pond, I wouldn't. They will act equally a drain when the water level gets low, or is lower than what yous want the h2o level in the pond to be. He dug down 10' and yous had 3' of water in the hole. That means that from soil level, you'd accept to walk downwards 7' to go to the water.......... At a 3:1 gradient, that means that the pond circumference would have to be 42 feet bigger. That'southward a lot of clay to be moving. Another downside to the groundwater pond that fluctuates, is where to put cover. If it were properly placed, lots would be out of the water when the water level was low. Weeds and greenery effectually the swimming is some other issue. Do you want plants growing around the edge of the h2o? That'due south very hard to exercise if the h2o level fluctuates more than 3'. Or are y'all willing to put upwardly with mucky soil around the edge of the pond if the level drops? If the contractor doesn't properly meaty the soil, that'd be a good "out" for him. "You lot wanted the springs opened, and the water is going out them. That's why the water level in the pond is dropping and so fast." |
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How To Keep Pond Full Of Water,
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